Monday, September 7, 2009

I Need A Drink

Are you fuc*ing kidding me? This has got to be the worst abomination I've seen in a minute. This bike actually makes me slightly angry for some reason. What a waste. From Fixed Gear Gallery, of course.

"I built up this baby for the Crystal Mountain Hill Climb. I had to disassemble the freehub in my Powertap hub in order to make it a fixed-gear; I did so by jamming pieces of scrap metal underneath the palls so that they held the freehub in place -- it worked great -- I could break and modulate my speed just like a normal fixie, but the power readout wasn't affected. This bike weighs 13 pounds, 1 ounce (with pedals and Powertap head unit).
Sent from my iPhone 206-XXX-6729"


Murse said...

There is nothing quite like suicide hubbing a powertap.

clintpatty said...

The SRM does not exist, surely. Epoxy on a freewheel hub is such a better idea. And it's probably not like the guy had money for this tri bike but not for a rear wheel. By my math he could have built a bike under 10 pounds if it was brakeless.

ponyheart said...

so i filled the pawls with JB Weld and duct taped the cogs on.

ponyheart said...

aero frame, deep wheels, and aero bars all add extra weight - ten pounds seems ambitious but maybe.

Anonymous said...


clintpatty said...

Segal frame/fork - 1525

Lightweight wheelset - 1040

SRAM Red crankset - 750

bars - 225

stem - 105

seatpost - 185

saddle - 105

tires - 380

tubes - 100

chain - 200

4615 grams = 10.2ish pounds
But I probably didn't take enough weight off the chain for how much less than the whole chain would be used on a fixed gear. And you'll notice the absence of cog/lockring; I chose the SRAM Red crankset and am assuming that taking off a big ring and getting smaller bolts will weigh more than a cog/lockring. There is an FSA compact crankset that weighs 660g as opposed to the Red 750g, so more weight could be taken off there. There are no special aero parts on this bike because who is going that fast uphill.

clintpatty said...

re: "so i filled the pawls with JB Weld and duct taped the cogs on."

I have nothing against doing a conversion with a freehub if the freehub had gone to shit anyway and would cost more than it was worth to fix. It's unacceptable for this wheel, but if I got an $80 rear wheel that didn't work anymore, I might empty out the grease and fill it with epoxy. This also works for freewheels; open the freewheel lockring, clean everything really well, replace grease with epoxy, put lockring back on, clean the hub and freewheel threads, epoxy the freewheel on tight.